Frequently Asked Questions

General Questions about Quonset Huts

Can I put side windows into my existing Quonset hut?

Cutting door or window openings into the sides of any Quonset hut severely weakens the structure. This weakness must be compensated for, or you risk total structural failure and collapse of the hut. When you order a brand new Quonset hut building and include side openings in your order, the factory will account for the openings in their engineering, and the structure should be sound if erected carefully following their instructions.

To add side openings to an existing building, the safest way to do it is to contact the factory that originally engineered the structure, and ask them. They should be able to review the records and structural calculations for your building, and in many cases the will probably be able to sell you a window kit to match your building’s arch profiles that will safely accommodate the structural requirements. They might need you to replace the arches on either side of the new window with heavier gauge arches to help compensate for the weakness induced by the window hole. In our Headquarters Hut at the Quompound, the arches on either side of the windows are heavier gauge than the rest of the building, to help compensate for this weakness. This is pretty common with side windows from what I understand.

The thing you have to realize about the structure of a Quonset hut, which isn’t immediately obvious, is that in addition to the gravitational force of the building pushing straight down, the arched shape also induces an outward thrust at its base. The slab foundation that is most commonly used with a Quonset hut is actually under tension, serving to tie the outer foundation lines and preventing the bottom of the arch from springing outward. Now imagine cutting a hole in the side of the hut that is 2, 3, or 4 arches wide. You have now created a section of the Quonset shell where, at the top of the window, there is nothing to resist the outward push naturally exerted by the arch shape.

I have seen, with my own eyes, a Quonset hut that collapsed because of an improperly engineered side window. Thankfully no one was hurt; it was not a pretty sight. Cutting holes in these buildings without involving the original factory that manufactured it is not a risk that I would advise anyone to take. The collapsed building was not one of my own projects or clients; I was allowed to view it before it was demolished and replaced.

So again side windows can be added to existing huts, but I would never attempt it without the full cooperation of the original factory engineers.

When I order my Quonset hut what gauge should I specify?

What gauge building a person should order comes up from time to time in the Facebook group.  The sheet metal panels that are formed at the factory come in various gauges, where “gauge” is referring to the thickness of sheet metal the building panels are made from.

The thinnest gauge these buildings come in is typically 22 gauge, and the heaviest is generally 16 gauge. Roughly speaking, you can imagine the gauge as a fraction of an inch. This isn’t technically accurate, but it does help you get a mental image of what we’re talking about. For example, 16 gauge is roughly 1/16 of an inch. The higher the number, the thinner the metal.

Here’s the crux of it though: you do not need to be preoccupied with attempting to determine this yourself before speaking with a salesperson. Here’s why: there are many factors that go into determining the gauge of the building you will need. Some of them are:

  • What shape you are considering. Q models are strongest; S are less strong than Q models; A models (sometimes called P models) are weakest.
  • Size of the building. A larger Q model will need to be a heavier gauge to meet structural loads than a smaller Q model.
  • What are the site conditions where you will be building? Are there snow loads, high wind loads, or are you in a seismic zone? Or some combination of these?

Your sales person, in consultation with the factory engineers if necessary, will be able to determine the minimum gauge that will suffice to meet your requirements based on these, and possibly other, factors that need to be taken into account. You can always opt to order your building in a heavier gauge if you want to, but asking some random person such as myself or putting the question out there in an online forum or Facebook group isn’t going to yield any useful information, in my opinion.

Instead, here are some avenues of research and due diligence that you can and should pursue instead, before initiating a conversation with a manufacturer:

Local building code requirements: Contact your local permit office and tell them you are planning on ordering a steel building and what are the local requirements? Snow load, wind load, seismic design, and frost line depth are all important to know. In theory the manufacturer is responsible for getting this stuff right, but it’s extremely important, and errors here will cause you endless headaches later. In addition to the items mentioned above, be sure to ask them if there are any other specific local requirements that need to be met.

Your building design: I highly, highly recommend having your design well worked out before finalizing your order. It is far too often that I am contacted by someone who wants help from me with their design, but upon speaking with them further I learn that they were so excited about some “discounted” or “overstocked” or “clearance” building, or a “cancelled order” from a manufacturer, that it was just too good of a bargain for them to pass up. But it turns out that the amazing bargain building they got talked into wasn’t really right for their needs. Sadly, this is actually a pretty common occurrence. And once you sign a contract and pay your deposit on the building, good luck getting any kind of refund or flexibility with respect to changes.

Do your due diligence! Then buy the building that really suits your needs.

What is the best heating/air conditioning (HVAC) system for a Quonset hut home?

It may surprise you to learn that the HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) system for a Quonset hut home isn’t necessarily any different from a conventional home with a similar size and layout, for the most part. The determination of what type of system will work best for you will have much more to do with the overall size of your home, its layout, your local climate, your budget, and other possible local considerations such as the applicable energy code, if you have one where you will be building.

For some homes, a traditionally ducted, central furnace/AC system will be a good choice. For smaller homes, such as an open-concept studio or open plan one-two bedroom home, a ductless mini-split system could be a good option.

For heating, a geothermal or ground source heat pump will cost more to set up than a conventional heat pump would, but you basically never have to buy fuel (although the system will require some electricity to run).

Many Quonset hut homes feature a lofty, open great room that takes full advantage of the large, clear spans these buildings are capable of. These types of spaces can be a challenge to heat, but a great solution there is to embed tubing in the concrete slab for a radiant floor system. We have installed this in the Loft House at the Quompound and we absolutely love it. Rather than blow hot air around in the big space, which would be constantly rising up out of human contact, the floor is just gently, silently heated to a comfortable level using the same on-demand propane water heater that creates our domestic hot water. I wrote about that system in detail, here.

Lastly, a wood stove or pellet stove can be a good option for heating. I wrote up a separate FAQ on those, so be sure to check it out also.

Can you install a wood stove in a Quonset hut home?

A wood stove or pellet stove can be a good option to heat a Quonset hut home, with a few caveats:

First, a pellet stove is much, much easier to vent than a wood stove. Pellet stoves are extremely efficient and part of their efficiency is that they are extremely clean burning. Many, if not most, pellet stoves can be vented straight through an exterior wall with just a vent cap on the outside of the wall, with no requirement for a full-on chimney like a wood stove would have.

Second, with either a traditional wood stove or a pellet stove, you will want to position it on an end wall. Placing a traditional wood stove or pellet stove somewhere along one of the sides of your Quonset hut will create problems for venting it. Think about it this way: when it rains, all that water is pouring down the sides of your hut. If you are trying to penetrate the side of the hut for a flue or chimney, you are basically putting that hole right along a waterfall. The end walls are a far better location.

Third, a wood stove chimney, if it is to pass through the Quonset arch, will require a hole about 10 1/2″ in diameter. This may be a larger hole than your Quonset hut manufacturer will allow without voiding your warranty. If you plan to install a wood stove, I would strongly urge you to make it clear to your salesperson at the beginning of your discussion of the building with them. It might be possible for them to accommodate it in your building kit, but there could be issues, especially with larger buildings. Or they may need to adjust the gauge of your building (or make one or two arches heavier than the rest) to compensate for the hole. Cutting holes in the building is a big deal and is definitely something to be take seriously.

If you do end up penetrating the arch for a wood stove chimney, you will be much better off doing so at the very dead center of the arch, rather than to one side or the other. The reason, again, has to do with water intrusion. At the top center of the building, virtually all the rain water is going to be flowing down the sides and away from the chimney flue. This gives you a much better chance of keeping water out.

Do I need to insulate my Quonset hut?

Short answer: Yes.

Some manufacturers have salespeople who claim their buildings don’t require insulation; that their buildings are somehow self-insulating or that they naturally reflect the heat away and keep the inside cooler in summer than the outside temperatures. I have heard that they claim up to 20 degrees cooler in some cases.

I’m here to tell you this is a completely bogus sales pitch. Quonset huts are amazing buildings, and there are so many good things to say about them that this “insulation optional” hogwash is totally unnecessary and whoever gives this sales pitch to a potential customer should know better. They should sell these buildings on their merits, not on made up nonsense.

Our Quonset huts, before we insulated them, were routinely a minimum of 10 degrees hotter in summer than the outside temperatures. A well insulated Quonset can probably out-perform a comparable stick-built home, energy wise, in my opinion, but an uninsulated Quonset is unlivably hot in summer and cold in winter. The truth is there is ZERO insulation value to the metal shell.

The best insulation for a Quonset hut is closed cell spray foam. The amount varies based on your climate and local conditions, the building code where you are, and your budget.

Can you build a Quonset hut on a stem wall instead of a flat slab?

Placing a Quonset hut on a stem wall is less common, but doable. To do this, you will need to design a custom foundation, with your own engineer, as opposed to using the Quonset hut manufacturer’s standard foundation design.

One thing you have to realize about the structure of a Quonset hut and its foundation, which isn’t immediately obvious, is that in addition to the gravitational force of the building pushing straight down on the foundation, the arched shape also exerts an outward, lateral thrust at its base. The slab foundation that is most commonly used with a Quonset hut is actually under tension, serving to tie the sides of the arch at the base, preventing the bottom of the arch from spreading or springing outward. Depending on the size of the hut, some of the factory foundation designs I have seen actually require a lot of extra rebar in the slab, helping the concrete to compensate for this outward thrust.

In order for your engineer to be able to design your foundation properly, you will need to get “reactions” for your building from your manufacturer in lieu of ordering your building with their standard foundation design. These reactions consist of a table of engineering data that is unique to your building, which your engineer will use to design the foundation to resist the outward thrust and meet all relevant safety codes. You need to make it clear to your sales person that you will need reactions for a custom foundation. Typically, you will also want to make sure to order base plates with the building, since the alternative to base plates, the “keyway foundation”, isn’t really suited to a custom foundation setup.

It will definitely be less expense and trouble to just go with a standard foundation design if at all possible. But if for whatever reason you need to go with a custom foundation design, such as setting the building up a bit and allowing for a crawlspace underneath a wood framed floor, it is definitely doable, as long as you get the reactions and get a qualified local engineer on your team.

Can my Quonset hut have a wood framed floor and crawl space instead of a slab floor?

Short answer: Yes you can.

If you want a wood floor with a crawl space below it, you will need to set the Quonset hut on a concrete stem wall, which will need to be custom engineered. Concrete block is not as strong as concrete, and typical block is only 8″ wide, which is too narrow for a Quonset hut base plate. Thus a solid concrete wall is your best bet, and I would recommend a minimum wall thickness of 12″ (but this should ultimately be determined by your local engineer.)

The code minimum height for a crawl space is 18″. This means the arch will need to be lifted up the height of your floor framing + 18″, at a minimum. See the other question and answer about building a Quonset hut on a stem wall for more detail on how to go about this and what some of the pros and cons are.

Can you nest two huts, one inside the other?

This question comes up from time to time in my Facebook group.

It seems like a good idea at first but if you have actually built one of these buildings, you would quickly realize its impracticality. When you put a Quonset together, you have to only tighten the bolts “finger tight” on the first pass, and then go back over it to tighten it. So the space you would need in between the outer and inner shell would have to be large enough for a person to physically climb in there.

You are going to lose a LOT of square footage in your building if you are making the inner shell that much smaller than the outer shell. While you’re imagining climbing in there, have a look at this picture of me on the ladder, tightening the bolts on our Q25 workshop. Some of the bolts you can tighten from the top of the arch, and some from standing on the ground at the base plate. But there are a lot of bolts that are in between. How are you going to get a ladder in there, or how are you going to get to those bolts if you are trying to work in this super constrained limited space?

Ok, so by now you’re thinking, “but can’t I just order the arches and somehow just use it like it were installing siding or like ceiling panels?” Yes you could, but now you are going to have to build some kind of framework inside the outer hut, to bolt or screw the inner hut to, to hold it up. Isn’t that the whole idea that you were trying to avoid by adding this inner arch in the first place?

You can buy really high quality corrugated galvalume siding for about $1.50/s.f. that will at least match (or nearly match) the color and finish of your galvalume building. This is a fraction of what you would pay for a second hut to make your ceiling out of.

Sure, with enough ingenuity, you could probably figure out a way to do this. There is no limit to human ingenuity. I personally once thought this shell-inside-the-shell idea was a brilliant solution and I had this very conversation with people at SteelMaster when I was buying my building. Once we had built our first buildings I realize how impractical it would be to try.

Working with Earl

What would you charge to draw my floor plan(s)? I already know what I want and just need it drafted up.

For me, the joy that I seek and find in my work consists of developing custom home designs in collaboration with my clients. If you already know what you want, or think you do, then you don’t need my services, you just need a drafter.

At this point in my career, I am primarily interested in clients who are actively seeking my expertise and skills as a designer. To clarify, when I talk about “design” or being a “designer”, I’m talking about my skills in the following areas:

  • understanding the fundamentals of how Quonset huts work — and how they don’t work
  • understanding the fundamentals of framing, structure, and all the systems that go into a house such as electrical, plumbing, HVAC, insulation/energy efficiency, low voltage systems, etc.
  • applying my decades of experience in custom home design and studying the efficient and meaningful use of space, materials, and natural light.

My design work consists in combining the above concepts – knowledge of Quonset huts specifically, knowledge of building systems generally, application of my considerable custom home design experience – into a harmonious, integrated, thorough design that meets and exceeds the goals and dreams of my client. As an award-winning architect and custom home designer, I do my best work when I am challenged by adventurous, creative, and courageous clients to bring my best game, and work with them to create something beautiful and unique that is a reflection of their best selves.

As for my fees: I’m not able to quote a project or estimate my fees based on a simple email exchange. If, after reading through these FAQ’s, you are interested in exploring the possibility of working together, please send me an email to earl(at)clevermoderns(dot)com with a little information about yourself/selves, where you intend to build, the approximate size and scope of your project, your anticipated budget, and we can take it from there.

What goes into a set of construction drawings for a Quonset hut home?

Another version of this question is, “Can you draw up my plan for me?”

When I work with a client on a custom home design, it is much more than just a floor plan. All buildings are three dimensional, and a floor plan is only one small aspect of the documentation necessary to build a building. This is especially true with Quonset huts and their unusual shapes.

A full set of construction drawings includes a site plan, foundation plan, floor plans, cross-sections through the building, exterior elevations, a complete list of all doors and windows with their sizes and types (this is called a door and window schedule), plus lots of construction details, and lots of other technical information having to do with the plumbing, electrical, and other building systems.

I am very thorough with my construction documents; it is something I take great pride in.

How long does it take to design and build a Quonset hut house? What is the process?

The length of time to design and build a new home can vary greatly, and there are a lot of factors that come into play. It’s important to remember that although you may think your Quonset hut home will be small and simple, and thus it shouldn’t take more than a few weeks or months to design and build, it is still a custom home that you are undertaking to build, and a custom home of any size is no small undertaking. Design and construction of a good custom home takes time.

Quonset Home Design Process

I always start the design process by creating a 3D model of the design, showing the arch panels in their exact size and shape, which allows me to model literally every component in the building to accurate scale. It is crucial to understand the exact three-dimensional geometry of the curve of your hut in order to create an overall composition of spaces that is both beautiful and functional, not to mention in order to get the technical details right. Once we have the essentials of the design worked out in the 3D model, we refine the plans, sections, and elevations as 2D drawings. Lastly, as we refine the drawings still further, we create the technical construction details. Clients often want to revise and change things as we go, which is totally appropriate to the task at hand, but also requires additional time and effort.

I meet frequently with my clients throughout the design process. The best ideas never spring fully formed onto the page; the best ideas require a process of refinement. In fact, the simpler and more elegant the design solution, the greater amount of refinement and editing it required to get there.

Quonset Hut Home Construction

Once designed, the project moves to construction. It’s important to remember that the construction of even a small, simple custom home still requires all the various subcontracted trades to show up, in the proper sequence, to do their job, however minimal it might be. All these companies have many other projects competing for time in their schedule. Since certain things have to happen in a specific sequence in order to build a home, it is challenging at best to try to get a construction project to go quickly. Various phases of the project require inspections as well, which takes time and can cause delay. Some components will have to be special ordered, which again takes time. All of this coordination, scheduling, and ordering takes time whether it’s a smaller job or a larger job.

You should not expect this to be a fast process, just because you perceive your small, simple custom home build to be, well, small and simple.

Bottom line: the design process is often 6-9 months; building permits can add 3-6 months depending on the jurisdiction, although this can vary greatly also. Construction can take anywhere from 6 months (extremely fast) to a year (more common) or longer.

Do you sell Quonset hut kits? Can I get a quote from you on a building?

No, I do not sell Quonset huts — I am strictly a designer. I suggest you contact SteelMaster USA for a quote on your building. Tell them I sent you!

Do you do construction? Can you build my project for me?

Many readers have seen my blog posts about our ongoing Quonset construction at the Quompound, and written to ask me if I can build their project for them. In short, no, I am not a contractor and I do not build the Quonset homes that I design for my clients.

I have extensive construction background and was a licensed general contractor, along with being a licensed architect, when we lived in California. When we left California and moved to Arizona, I relinquished my general contractor’s license, but have kept up my architect’s license. I believe my construction background (especially my own experience building our Quonset huts at the Quompound) makes me a more knowledgeable designer when it comes to the work I do for my clients, and I am grateful for that experience, but I have no intention to develop a construction business at this point.

I can, however, recommend two separate individuals with small crews who travel the U.S. erecting Quonset huts for people.They are:

Joshua Merrell: phone 731-220-5197
Danny Forbess: phone 641-521-4507

Both of these guys have been extremely helpful members of the Facebook Group, and many, many people in the group have said good things about both of them. From what I gather they are not what you would think of as “full service” general contractors, but rather that they both specialize in erecting just the Quonset hut. But, you should speak with each of them directly about what services they currently offer.